Initial setup advice for your touring car

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Initial setup advice for your touring car

When I first signed up to the club I did not have a clue about how to set up a radio control car, and like many had not touched one for many, many years. And a lot has changed!

So I contacted the club, and our very own chairman Mick got in touch by phone and gave me some very useful advice for setting up my Schumacher Mi7 17.5T Blinky before my first visit to the track. Three months on, some of these settings remain, and some I have tweaked to suit my driving "style" or lack of, but I wanted to share these so that anyone coming to our road circuit for the first time can compare with their own set up.

It goes without saying - and I am the worst at doing this as a novice - only make ONE change, and only SMALL changes, and then test. This is the only way to know if a specific change helps or hinders your car's performance.

I have added my notes to what I have done since getting these tips, again I am only a novice, but other novices may find this handy, and the faster drivers at the track please do come and whisper in my ear if I am going in the wrong direction!

Mick's Setup Tips for Beginners at Adur Road Circuit

 

Tyres & Additives

"Most driver's go for the Sweep 34 tyres (Which are BRCA approved too) and then some tyre additive and warmers will really help. Good additive options to start with are Spider Green or CS High Grip additives. There is no power at the track so bring a battery for your tyre warmers!"

Three months on, I do still run the sweep 34's although I have played with the Volante 36 tyres too, which last a lot less, but gave me stunning grip during one very warm round at the track. I tend to use Red Dot or MR33 additive but still have Spider Green on hand and have used that on colder days...

 

Ride Height


"You can start out with 5.5mm of ride height front and rear, as the track is a little bumpy in places and to help with kerbs. You may want to drop the ride height at the rear a little depending on your driving style. Try both out."

I pretty much sit around here all of the time, although I go up on the rear sometimes to 5.8mm, which some will say is high, but found it really helped my rotation as I have my bodies now mounted more forwards too...

Droop


"Set your droop up at 5mm for the front and 4mm for the rear. That will be a good starting point"

 

I had to look up what droop was! And I am still trying to understand it and have struggle with my car to get the droop I want, and am still learning. So I do run around 5mm at the front and 4mm at the rear, although I now use the Aerox droop tool which measures from the axle, so is consistent across all cars. But I think droop for me will really unlock some more control when I get a better  understanding of it...

 

Shock Rebound


"Set your shocks to as close to zero rebound as possible. This will help with grip in the corners especially on the in field."

I have and still do run with zero rebound. I have found investing in a quality shock pump (I now have the Hudy powered pump) really helps with quick changes and to get all the air out. I drilled a hole in the top of my shocks to vent them which helps ensure zero rebound...

 

Shock Oil

"A good starting point for our track which may be the same as your kit is 40wt on the front and 45wt on the rear, depending on the temperature on the day."

I have a second set of shocks now so I can make very quick changes, and run as Mick suggests as it matches the kit setup, and then drop down when I find I need more grip...

 

Differential

"Make sure you have some diff oil, and you want to be going between 3K for grip through to 5K for speed"

I do like swapping out my differential oil as it makes a noticeable difference even for me as a novice. I now have invested in a spare diff so I will flick between 3K and 5K, but have also run 4K and 7K, and have noticed big changes each time. One of my favourite at-track tweaks now...

 

Gear Ratios

"I would recommend an FDR of 3.5-4 and play around from there with your pinions and spurs"

Once I had looked up what an FDR was (Its not a country its Final Drive Ratio and still none the wiser) I have a set of pinions and changed my spur gear so I can run between 3.5 and 4.4, and its another tweak I make at the track to either unlock some speed, or reduce my crashes by giving me more grip. One bit of advice I found really helped was to set your FDR so that you are at maximum speed 75% of the way down the longest straight. That has really helped me with my starting ratio...

 

Body Shells

"Most of the drivers at the club go with the ZooRacing DBX or Xtreme Twister"


I am currently using the new Xtreme Brutale, the latest version/twist (no pun) on the twister. I have gradually moved from being 0mm forward to up to 6 or even 8mm forward and am also moving my wing a mm or two and finding these changes make big difference with rotation...

 

So I would like to say a big thanks to Mick - and to Liam who also chipped in when I first came to the track, in getting me off to a sensible start. I still have a lot to learn, but as long as I am getting more consistent and in more control each time I race, that is my goal. The lap time and results will come along behind at some point - I hope!

Scott - Club Member

 

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  • scott hargrave
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